Gorilla Journal 19, December 1999

Limbe Wildlife Center, Limbe, Cameroon – People and Gorillas

For years I'd been hearing and reading about the horrors of the bushmeat trade - where animals, often endangered or threatened, are killed for their meat - not for needed protein to sustain human populations, but as a luxury, like caviar, to a growing middle and upper class. The increased wealth of local populations is frequently the result of logging interests, destroying old growth forests for quick, short-term profits. The forests can regrow, given enough time, but for many species of animals and plants, the rampant destruction currently going on will mean extinction.
Gorilla Haven is designed to help captive gorillas lead more enriched lives. It makes sense that we also be actively involved in helping gorillas in Africa, where gorillas are extremely rare in captivity, and where their numbers in the wild are dwindling fast, due to deforestation, human population encroachment and the bushmeat trade. Unlike chimpanzees or monkeys, gorillas seem to give up and die rather than endure the hellish lives captive primates often face in Africa and elsewhere.
Inspired by stories in the IPPL Newsletters, Gorilla Haven has supported the Limbe Wildlife Center for several years. In May 1999 I visited Limbe to see first hand just how and if our money was being put to good use. This was immediately confirmed when I met the people and animals at Limbe, and saw how much could be done with relatively little money. Zoos spend millions of dollars on fancy exhibits, which is a great way to inspire and educate the public about the plight of animals in their native habitats, as well as to provide a better life for their captive charges. However, if a mere fraction of such spending could be sent to help Limbe, the effects could/would be astounding. For US$ 50,000 a year, Limbe can operate. For US$ 100,000 a year, Limbe can build larger, better enclosures. For US$ 250,000 a year, Limbe can thrive and also expand their unique and effective education program, the Limbe Wildlife Center Nature's Club, into other parts of Cameroon, including the bush where hunting endangered animals is unfortunately still accepted. Alas, currently they cannot raise operating costs and each day is a struggle for survival. It's clear without IPPL's, Gorilla Haven's and other's help, Limbe wouldn't be as far along as they are today, but the need is constant and the future is far from secure.
The goal of Limbe is to release all animals back to the wild, if and as possible, but with great apes this is problematic, if not impossible, since hand-reared or captive animals cannot survive in the wild. Hopefully if funds are raised, Limbe will be able to release these gorillas (as well as other animals) to a large preserve, where the animals can be protected from hunters and provisioned, but left alone to live a life as free as possible. When I visited Limbe the zoo consisted of all primates (oh, yes, there was a crocodile and a snake too!), including 19 chimpanzees, 7 gorillas, a variety of monkeys including mangabeys and guenons, as well as 12 of the high ly endangered drill baboons - over 80 individual primates total. All the animals at Limbe started life as victims of the bushmeat trade, survivors of massacres that killed their families. Such survivals are rare, making their stories even more special.
Limbe's staff is remarkable. Linda Percy and Tony Chasar, two American volunteers, worked tirelessly, assisting and training a staff of wonderful Cameroonians. In July they left to go work at Ndoki in the Congo, replaced by Jackie Belle, who’s continuing their good work at Limbe. Gorilla keepers, Wilson, Bama and Jonathan are loving, eager and intelligent men anxious to learn more. No one at Limbe, except Jonathan, who went to Jersey for some training, has ever seen a silverback gorilla! Abel heads the Nature's Club, where school children from all over can come to the zoo (free of charge) to learn about the animals and the environment.
Many of the Limbe staff started working there as volunteers. The concept of volunteering is usually a concept of wealthier nations, where each day isn't spent just trying to survive. Since Limbe, like so many people in Africa, struggles to get by with the bare necessities (food, shelter, healthcare, etc.), the idea that someone with the same struggles would offer their time to work with no monetary reward in return is truly remarkable. But remarkable people is why Limbe is so unique.
Stephen's story is classic: Raised in a hunting village, where bushmeat and killing gorillas and chimps was routine, Stephen caught a viper (a snake) one day and brought it to the zoo in the hopes of selling it. The zoo had no money, but they said they'd take the snake and Stephen agreed to come back later when they had money to give him. He kept returning to the zoo for money that was never there, but in the process he started to talk to the staff and observe the animals. Then he started volunteering, helping around the zoo and before he knew it, he had a job working with the drills. Today Stephen is a converted conservationist, who doesn't eat meat and who returns home to his village to tell his father and the village elders why bushmeat is not a good thing! His brother, Johnson, is now a chimp keeper, so perhaps there will be at least one less village hunting bushmeat!
But the gorillas were my main reason for going. Reading about Pitchou's struggle to survive in the IPPL journals, I wanted to see her for myself. I will confess I fought back tears several times during my 7 day stay at Limbe, but they were all tears of joy tinged with the sadness that such stories of survival were so rare. Pitchou was everything and more that I thought she'd be. But so were the others: Nyango, Chella, Emma, Evindi, Jumbo andBenito.
My last day in Limbe a French couple approached us, saying they had a 5 month old baby chimpanzee they were going to bring to the center. Linda Percy had to turn them away, saying they simply didn't have the money or the staff to take on the 24 hour demands of such a young baby. Linda advised the couple to bring the chimp to the zoo in Yaounde, but later she told me she had to do this horribly painful task of turning away animals more times that she'd like. The center never pays for animals, so this is getting out and now hunters know they won't be rewarded for bringing baby primates to Limbe. Still, other well-meaning people will pay for a primate baby, convinced they're doing the right thing, even though they're just contributing to the trade in baby primates unwittingly. Education is essential.
I'd traveled to Africa at least a dozen times, to southern and eastern African countries. This was my first time to West/Central Africa and I was amazed at the potential of Cameroon's people, the country and the wildlife. The setting is magical, with Mt. Cameroon looming over Limbe, a coastal village where the Atlantic Ocean gently laps against the shores and Bioko Island, Equitorial Guinea silhouettes the sunsets each night. That such a magical place is also the setting for the slaughter of so many animals and the destruction of so much diversity, so forests can be logged to meet the supply of ignorant or selfish western countries is heart breaking. But ignorance doesn't have to have fatal consequences. The problems of Africa are huge and often I hear people sighing that it's too much for one person to handle. But one person CAN make a difference. I saw the difference my money made at Limbe, in the smiles of the staff and the well adjusted behaviors of the gorillas, who should be basket-cases or dead, given their unfortunate histories. Even a small donation goes so much further in Cameroon than it might in a western country.
The mere thought of Pitchou brings a smile to my heart and the money we sent to help her more than a year ago remains the best investment we've ever made.

Jane Dewar

Jane T. R. Dewar has a degree in linguistics. Gorilla Haven was established in 1997 "To make every captive gorilla's life as enriched and natural as possible, and to promote education about gorilla conservation in zoos and the wild". It is funded by the Dewar Wildlife Trust, a non-profit organization funded by J. and S. Dewar.

Pitchou    Benito   Photos: Jane Dewar
Pitchou and Benito

Limbe website

Western lowland gorilla overview

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